Sunday, September 8, 2024

This unspoilt corner of Croatia is a blissful escape from urban bustle

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But, for most visitors to the area, the highlight is Mala Kolumbarica, on Kamenjak’s southern tip. With wide-reaching sea views, it is an expanse of smooth, flat rocks, perfect for sunbathing. There are also cliffs, some as high as 11m (36ft), from which adrenalin junkies enjoy leaping or somersaulting into the deep, clear sea. A nearby sea cave is popular for snorkelling and underwater photography. 

From Mala Kolumbarica, you can see the Fenoliga islet to the west, and beyond it, rising on the horizon, the Porer lighthouse, built in 1883 (which has an apartment available to rent, sleeping four in two double rooms). High above the beach, hidden amid bamboo and palm fronds, stands the brilliant Safari Bar, a perfect spot for a sundowner. It’s one of those places you’ll not want to leave – much like the rest of Cape Kamenjak. 


Getting there 

From Pula’s main bus station, bus 28 runs direct to Premantura. From here it’s a short walk to the entrance of Cape Kamenjak nature reserve. 

Where to stay

On a budget 

In Premantura, family-run Villa Marizella has two comfortable apartments (sleeping four) plus a studio (sleeping two), all with kitchenettes and outdoor seating areas, plus a garden with a barbecue. 

Pushing the boat out 

Alternatively, try the five-star waterside Grand Hotel Brioni in Pula’s Verudela neighbourhood. Built in 1972, it was renovated in 2022 and offers spacious sea-view rooms and a 60m infinity pool. Ask the concierge about private tailor-made boat tours to Cape Kamenjak.

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